Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar is part of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, protected since 1979. The whole reserve lies more than 500 metres above sea level. The colours come from rhyolite, a light, silica-rich volcanic rock, and from minerals such as sulphur and iron that stain the slopes. Steam rises from vents across the hills, from the large geothermal area around the Torfajökull volcano.

The base camp sits on the edge of Laugahraun, a lava field from an eruption around 1477. Much of it is obsidian, black volcanic glass with sharp edges, piled in rough blocks between the mountains. Above it rises Brennisteinsalda, the Sulphur Wave, one of the most colourful slopes in the area.

At the foot of the lava, hot water rising from the ground meets cold streams fed by the mountains. Where they mix, the pool is warm enough to sit in for as long as you like.

Landmannalaugar is also the start of the Laugavegur, a 55 km trail south to Þórsmörk and Iceland's best-known multi-day trek. The Iceland Touring Association runs the hut here.

A day trip is long. Pickup in Reykjavík is early in the morning, with a stop in a South Iceland town on the way. The drive takes three to four hours each way, past the Hekla volcano and across black sand and lava. Some routes add waterfalls such as Sigöldufoss or Hjálparfoss, or a stop at the crater lake Ljótipollur.

Most trips spend around three hours at Landmannalaugar. The usual guided walk is about two hours, out through the obsidian of Laugahraun and up toward Brennisteinsalda, past steaming vents. Fitter hikers sometimes climb Bláhnúkur, a steeper peak with a view over the whole valley, which takes longer. If you prefer, you can take a shorter walk and spend more time in the hot spring.

Bring a swimsuit and towel. There are changing rooms and showers at the base camp, with a fee for using them. Bring your own lunch and water too. Paths are gravel and loose stone, with some steep sections, so wear hiking boots. The moss and soil here are fragile, and footprints off the path take a long time to heal, so stay on the marked trails.

The highland weather can turn at any time. Pack a warm layer and a waterproof jacket even on a sunny morning, and expect wind.

The roads into Landmannalaugar usually open in June, once the snow has melted and the ground has dried. The Road and Coastal Administration decides the date each year. The northern route, F208 from Sigalda, has opened on average in early June, and F225 past Hekla around mid-June. In a late spring, they can open weeks later.

Day trips run from roughly late June to September. July and August are the warmest months, though warm here means an average of around 7 to 8°C, and snow can fall in any month. Long summer days give you plenty of light for the drive and the hike.

The Laugavegur trail opens later than the roads, usually from late June to mid-September. Hut and campsite bookings are expected before you start.