Golden Circle

Þingvellir comes first, about an hour from Reykjavík. Iceland's general assembly, the Alþingi, met here in the open air from around 930 until 1798. In 1944 Iceland declared its independence from Denmark on the same spot. The valley also sits on the ridge where the North American and Eurasian plates pull apart, and the cracks show at Almannagjá, the path down into the valley, and in Silfra, a flooded fissure where people dive and snorkel. UNESCO listed the park in 2004.

Geysir lies in the Haukadalur valley. The Great Geysir gave its name to every geyser in the world, but it rarely erupts now. Its neighbour Strokkur does the work, throwing up a column of boiling water every few minutes. Around it are steaming vents and bubbling pools, fenced off for good reason.

A few minutes further on, the glacial river Hvítá drops in two steps into a narrow canyon at Gullfoss, the Golden Waterfall. Around 100,000 litres of water go over the edge every second.

A standard day lasts six to eight hours, and longer if you add an activity. Most trips run in the order Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss, with time for a walk at each. At Þingvellir you usually walk down through Almannagjá, past the site of the old assembly, often with a short detour to the Öxarárfoss waterfall. At Geysir there is time to wait for a couple of Strokkur eruptions and walk among the hot pools. At Gullfoss, paths lead to an upper viewpoint and down to the edge of the falls, where the spray will reach you.

Many trips add a stop or two on the way back. Kerið is a red volcanic crater with a lake at the bottom and a path around the rim. Friðheimar is a family-run greenhouse farm that grows tomatoes all year round, even in the Icelandic winter. Others finish with a soak at a geothermal lagoon, or swap a stop for a snowmobile ride on the Langjökull glacier.

Small-group minibuses keep the day relaxed and stop where big coaches cannot. Private cars set their own pace. Bring a packed lunch if you want to save time and money, as food is rarely included.

The Golden Circle works in every season. Summer brings long days, green moss and the biggest crowds, especially at Geysir around midday. Starting early, or on a long summer evening, gives you quieter paths.

Winter days are short, so trips run on a tighter schedule. Snow at Gullfoss and Þingvellir is beautiful, but paths can be icy, and the lower path at Gullfoss is sometimes closed for safety. Wear boots with good grip, and bring a hat and gloves.

Spring and autumn are a good middle ground, with fewer people and enough light for the full loop. Check the weather on vedur.is and road conditions on road.is before you set out.