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Kraków — experiences

Experiences in Kraków

The royal city that escaped the war's bombs, and the starting point for Auschwitz-Birkenau.

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Kraków

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Frequently asked questions

The Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial is in the town of Oświęcim, about 70 km west of Kraków, roughly an hour and a half by road. Most visitors go on a trip that includes transport from Kraków and back.

At the busiest times of day and year, the Memorial admits visitors mainly on guided visits with its licensed educators, and entry times are limited. A guided visit secures an entry slot and explains what you are seeing at both Auschwitz I and Birkenau, which are a few kilometres apart.

Bring a photo ID, as entry passes are issued in visitors' names. Bags are limited to a small size (about 30 × 20 × 10 cm), so leave larger bags at your hotel. Much of the visit is outdoors at Birkenau, so dress for the weather. The museum does not recommend the visit for children under 14.

Yes. They stand side by side on Wawel Hill. The cathedral and each of the castle's exhibitions, such as the State Rooms, the Royal Private Apartments and the Crown Treasury, have their own tickets and limited entry times, so check what a tour includes or book ahead in summer.

It is the path Polish kings took into the city for their coronations: through the Planty and the old town, across the Main Square past St Mary's Basilica and the Cloth Hall, and on to the castle on Wawel Hill. Walking it is the most natural way to see the old town's major sights in one go.

The hejnał is played every hour from the basilica's taller tower and breaks off mid-note. Legend says it recalls a watchman shot by an arrow while warning the city of an attack. You can hear it from anywhere on the Main Square.

It is not recommended. An Auschwitz trip takes most of the day, and most people find it emotionally heavy. Give the old town and Wawel a separate day, ideally before the Auschwitz visit.

Kraków came through the Second World War with its old town almost untouched, which is why it still reads like a map of Polish history: the square where merchants traded, the road kings rode along to their coronations, and the hill where they were crowned and buried. A guide turns those streets from a pretty backdrop into a story. Kraków is also where most visitors to Auschwitz-Birkenau set out from, and that visit is one to make with a licensed educator rather than alone.

About Kraków

Kraków was Poland's capital for more than five hundred years, and its old town was among the very first places UNESCO listed as World Heritage, in 1978. At its centre is the Main Market Square, one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, with the Renaissance Cloth Hall down the middle and the twin towers of St Mary's Basilica on one corner. Inside the basilica is Veit Stoss's carved wooden altarpiece, the largest Gothic altarpiece in the world. From the taller tower a trumpeter plays the hejnał every hour and stops mid-note, remembering a watchman said to have been shot while sounding the alarm.

The old walls were torn down in the nineteenth century and replaced by the Planty, a ring of park you cross whichever way you enter. South of the square, Wawel Hill holds the royal castle and the cathedral where Polish kings were crowned and are buried, with the legendary dragon's cave cut into the rock below. In between is the Jagiellonian University, founded in 1364, where Copernicus studied.

What to expect on a Kraków experience

Most visits to Kraków mix two very different kinds of day:

  • The city itself: the Royal Route from the Planty through the Main Square to Wawel Hill, visits inside St Mary's Basilica and Wawel Castle and Cathedral, the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz, and the wartime story of Podgórze and Schindler's Factory. Food tours make the most of pierogi, obwarzanki and the old milk bars.
  • Day trips from Kraków: the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial, best visited with a licensed museum educator, the underground chambers of the Wieliczka Salt Mine, and the Tatra mountains around Zakopane. Allow most of a day for each.

Each tour page lists its exact meeting point, what is included and the languages available on each date.

Best time to visit

May, June and September are the easiest months: mild enough to spend hours outdoors, without the peak crowds of July and August. Summer is busy, and Auschwitz entry times sell out weeks ahead, so book that first if your dates are fixed. Winters are cold and grey, but December brings the Christmas market to the Main Square, and the old town is at its quietest from January to March.

Getting around

The old town is small and flat, and you can walk from the Main Square to Wawel in about ten minutes, so a pair of comfortable shoes is all you need. Trams cover the rest of the city, including Kazimierz and the riverside. Kraków Airport (Balice) is about 11 km west, with a train to the main station, Kraków Główny, next to the old town. Auschwitz and Wieliczka can be reached by bus or train, but a trip with transport is simpler: at Auschwitz, public transport leaves you to find the entrance and the shuttle between the two camps yourself.

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